01.18.09 | Polarizing Filter
Excellent video demo of polarizing filter.

01.18.09 | Digital photography tutorials
From Cambridge in Colour

08.31.08 | Resolution of web grahics
Graphic resolution is the spacing of pixels or dots in the graphic. It's measured in dots (or pixels) per inch (dpi). A typical computer monitor resolution is approximately 100 dpi. That's all you really need for Web graphics. Higher resolution doesn't make them sharper, just slower to download. For printed publications, use graphics at a higher resolution, such as 300 or 600 dpi.

08.31.08 | Photographing fireworks
This site has 11 tips for taking better photos of these displays. It has several links to related topics as well.

08.19.08 | Protecting your images from unauthorized use
PROTECTING YOUR IMAGES FROM UNAUTHORIZED USE
By Judy Hills



You took a wonderful photo of your dog and posted it to Flickr. A few months later you happened to see a dog food ad—and darn if it wasn’t your dog—your photo—in the ad! It can and it does happen. Because of the sheer volume of photographs, 90% of the time the photographer won’t even know his or her photo was “stolen.” Now as an amateur photographer you might be thrilled just to see your work in print, but let’s examine this situation more closely.

Those who are trying to make a living plying their art—photography—know that the digital revolution and the advance of the point ‘n shoot cameras has flooded the market “with an abundance of cheap product….The number of people who take photos is always going to dwarf the number willing to make a substantial effort to turn that into a business.” When amateur photographers post their photos online without appropriate protections, they run the risk of their work being “stolen.” So what are your options?

Don’t put your photos on the internet
As one photographer put it, “the only way to really make sure your photos on the Internet don’t get splashed around is not to put them there to begin with.” Some sites have more protections than others. A prudent photographer will take the time to read (yes, actually read) the whole terms and conditions of those online sites.

Add a watermark to your photos
“Placing an overlay watermark on images that you plan to post on the Web will identify them as your own work and discourage people from copying them or claiming them as their own. You can add a semi-transparent overlay to many images automatically when you use the Web Photo Gallery Creator feature in Photoshop and Photoshop Elements. Just look under the ‘Security’ section of the setup dialog.” You have several choices: text, filename, caption, credit, or copyright notice. You can decide the color, font, size and position of the watermark text. http://graphicssoft.about.com/cs/photoshop/qt/wpgwatermark.htm

Mark the work using the Creative Common License
“Creative Commons provides free tools that let authors, scientists, artists, and educators easily mark their creative work with the freedoms they want it to carry. You can use CC to change your copyright terms from ‘All Rights’ Reserved to ‘Some Rights Reserved.’"
Version 2.0 of the Creative Common License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/legalcode




Copyright your photos
The material in this section was taken directly from the US Copyright Office website.

According to the US Copyright Office, “the way in which copyright protection is secured is frequently misunderstood. No publication or registration or other action in the Copyright Office is required to secure copyright. (See following note.) There are, however, certain definite advantages to registration. See “Copyright Registration.”
Copyright is secured automatically when the work is created, and a work is “created” when it is fixed in a copy or phonorecord for the first time. “Copies” are material objects from which a work can be read or visually perceived either directly or with the aid of a machine or device, such as books, manuscripts, sheet music, film, videotape, or microfilm. “Phonorecords” are material objects embodying fixations of sounds (excluding, by statutory definition, motion picture soundtracks), such as cassette tapes, CDs, or LPs. Thus, for example, a song (the “work”) can be fixed in sheet music (“copies”) or in phonograph disks (“phonorecords”), or both. If a work is prepared over a period of time, the part of the work that is fixed on a particular date constitutes the created work as of that date.

In general, copyright registration is a legal formality intended to make a public record of the basic facts of a particular copyright. However, registration is not a condition of copyright protection. Even though registration is not a requirement for protection, the copyright law provides several inducements or advantages to encourage copyright owners to make registration. Among these advantages are the following:
• Registration establishes a public record of the copyright claim.
• Before an infringement suit may be filed in court, registration is necessary for works of U.S. origin.
• If made before or within 5 years of publication, registration will establish prima facie evidence in court of the validity of the copyright and of the facts stated in the certificate.
• If registration is made within 3 months after publication of the work or prior to an infringement of the work, statutory damages and attorney's fees will be available to the copyright owner in court actions. Otherwise, only an award of actual damages and profits is available to the copyright owner.
• Registration allows the owner of the copyright to record the registration with the U. S. Customs Service for protection against the importation of infringing copies. For additional information, go to the U.S. Customs and Border Protection website at www.cbp.gov/xp/cgov/import.

Registration may be made at any time within the life of the copyright. Unlike the law before 1978, when a work has been registered in unpublished form, it is not necessary to make another registration when the work becomes published, although the copyright owner may register the published edition, if desired.”

So as an amateur photographer you have to decide how you will protect your photos. This article should have given you some ideas as to your options.



Resources:
Watermark: http://www.candeekis.com/pswatermark/pswmtut.html
Watermark: http://graphicssoft.about.com/cs/photoshop/ht/apswatermark.htm
Watermark: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuIQSPMHk2U
Watermark: How To Add a Text Watermark to a Photo in Photoshop 5.5 or higher
Watermark: How To Add a Text Watermark to a Photo in Photoshop Elements
Creative Commons: http://creativecommons.org/
How to copyright a photo
http://www.photosecrets.com/tips.copyright.html#automatic
US Copyright Office: Copyright basics
http://www.photosecrets.com/tips.copyright.html#automatic

08.12.07 | Weather Watching
Weather Watching

Whenever it is time to go out to take your photos, do you check the weather? Particularly if the weather is not optimal you need a detail look at what is going on at the location you are going to visit. Bookmark several weather sites so during extreme weather if one site gets bombarded you can switch to another. Here are a few websites you can add to your favorites.

For location by zip or city name with a radar that you can zoom in and show storms try www.wunderground.com. You can join and not have any pesky ads for $10 per year. This site has a pretty awesome photo gallery too which shows photos related to the weather and nature from all over the world.

If you prefer to view the site of the "mother ship" check out the National Hurricane Center of the National Weather Service at www.nhc.noaa.gov/satellite.shtml. You can get local satellite imagery as well as the most up to date hurricane information.

Then there's the good ole Weather Channel from cable TV that shows you everything but the weather, but their web site is pretty good, so check them out at www.weather.com.

A couple more sites that have good information are www.accuweather.com and www.intellicast.com.

When shooting you should always keep an eye to the sky and if you hear thunder, it is time to seek shelter. As a photographer many times we are so involved in our shooting that we take unnecessary risks. Check out www.struckbylightning.org and give lightning a lot of respect. Also be aware that when you shoot at the beach you need to wipe down your gear afterward to remove the surface salt that accumulates on it. And last, remember to clean out your camera bag at least once a year to remove any dust and dirt in it.

08.12.07 | The Dreaded Depth of Field
The Dreaded Depth of Field Discussion

Simply defined, depth of field is a determination of how much of a photo will be in focus. Most cameras, once they are taken off of “program” will allow flexibility either through pre-programmed modes or manual settings. Through these setting you can determine if only a flower or the flower and the bridge behind it will be in focus? Having an understanding of depth of field will allow you to make these choices.

I had such a time with this in photography school that I wrote one setting on a piece of tape and put it on the back of my camera case. “F22 = more in focus,” which told me that a lower number meant less would be in focus. The F22 referred to my shutter opening when shooting in manual. If I wanted the flower in focus I would shoot on F2.8, or if I wanted the flower and bridge in focus I would move to F22.

So how does this apply to you? Read your camera’s manual about the preset “modes” which may have “icons” to represent settings in your camera such as indoors, shade, flowers, sunshine, and flash. Each mode should have a depth of field setting related to it. You need to choose a mode, take pictures, and see the results. Set it on “shade” and shoot inside with and without flash, outside, in the shade, in the sun, and then compare your photos. Keep notes of your results in your camera bag until you have them memorized.

Exploring depth of field will open up a new dimension in your favorite hobby. Now go try this out.

07.16.07 | A Visit to the NC Zoo
There are many fun things to do in the summer including a visit to the North Carolina Zoo in Asheboro. Our State’s Zoo has a lot of challenges when it comes to photography. Here are some tips and tricks for a photo visit to the NC Zoo.

A very major consideration is the weather. I have been caught by a few sprinkles while carrying a large camera so when unsure about the weather I will carry a plastic shopping bag. All I want is enough coverage to get to shelter so a bag is light, easy to carry, and will protect my equipment in a brief shower.

Another part of the weather is heat. Heat becomes an issue if you try to carry your entire camera gear collection into the Zoo. You’ll wear yourself out and have a hard time traveling on the shuttle trams. If you are there for the day, plan on time to go back to your vehicle to trade out gear. It is best to travel light and not worry about a child falling over your camera bag.

The next part of a Zoo visit is research. You do not want to spend time looking for a certain exhibit. Have a loose game plan and move quickly to the exhibit you want to see. Arriving at 9am when the gate opens will give you a good hour to see exhibits without a crowd competing for window space and smudging up the glass. That being said, I love to sit back and watch the folks, such as the gorilla exhibit. The children can
be very entertaining. The gorillas like watching us too!

Lastly, you’ll take better photos when you are not tiring yourself walking uphill. Take the tram to Junction Plaza which is in the middle of the Zoo and walk from there. For the most part the walk will be downhill.

For more information on the NC Zoo please visit www.nczoo.org

07.16.07 | Another Zoo Story
Visiting the NC Zoo is one of my favorite things to do. I have my favorite places to visit to take photographs. I also enjoy the other visitors at the zoo. Here is a typical photography related incident that happened on my last visit.

While walking past the zebra exhibit will my large camera on my shoulder, a couple, who figured correctly that I knew how to take a photograph, asked me to take their picture. They had just bought their camera the day before their Zoo visit. The camera was a small “point and shoot.” The couple were standing in the shade with a very bright
grassy meadow and a few animals behind them. I took the photo, looked at it and asked if they knew how to turn on the flash. I was surprised and pleased that they did. So I took the shot again using the flash. The photo was great at that point.

So why did I want to use flash, outside and in the daytime? Because the camera could not correctly determine whether I was shooting a brightly lit field or a couple standing in the shade. As a result the camera choose the middle ground and the couple’s faces were dark. By using the flash the camera adjusted to correctly expose the couple and
the animals in the field behind them because all of the light was equal once they turned on the flash.

When using a point and shoot camera you are letting the camera do the thinking but sometimes it needs help. We get right back to “RTM” (read the manual)! Anytime you have a subject that is darker than the background, turn on the flash and see what happens.

07.10.07 | Starting out in Digital Photography
I am guessing from the fact that many new cameras are introduced just before the Christmas season and go on sale just after the Christmas season, that digital cameras are still a hot ticket gift item, even when you are giving it to yourself. After the fun of opening the box and all the little accessories enclosed in plastic bags has passed you have to "RTM." That has almost come to be a four letter word: READ THE ANUAL! Even a cell phone camera has a degree of RTM attached to it if you want to get the photos from the phone to your computer. Once you open the manual you realize that you may have gotten in over your head. All you wanted to do was snap a few photos and print them out on your computer. Some manufacturers even have it so you can print irectly from the camera in order to stick with the KISS (keep it simple) theory. It is also very easy to take the camera to a local lab and have your photos printed while you wait or within an hour.

So how many "good" photographs do you get? From what I have seen and heard, very few. You, as a camera operator, probably have neither the time or patience to turn out professional quality photographs. But there are a few simple things that you can train yourself to do that will greatly improve the quality of the photos you take.

First is practice holding the camera still. Camera shake is a major issue and many camera companies have built in stabilization into their cameras. Higher end cameras use a gyro configuration in the lens. Other companies, such as Sony, use a digital stabilization. I mention Sony here because my first digital camera was a Sony. It took absolutely wonderful photographs with beautiful color and was very forgiving in the area of producing a sharp photo. I learned early on though that the camera either needs to be on a tripod to hold it steady, or to do things such as lean against a wall, to steady my shot.

Next is to wait for the camera to focus. On most cameras you can hold the button (shutter release) half way down, wait for the camera to beep, then take the photo. The beep is there to alert you that the camera is ready to take the photo. Being in a hurry will get you a nice blurry photo.

Lastly, if that all important photo did turn out blurry and you really want a print of it, have it printed small. Many times a bad photo at the 8 inch by 10 inch size looks fine as a 4 inch by 6 inch photo or smaller.

Here's a very, very important note to always keep in the back of your mind: In this digital age, a photo needs to be printed. A digital file can be lost, written over, or forgotten. Have your photos printed by a photo lab or if you print them, use "pigmented" inks so they will last for the next generation. You are a recorder of your world. Preserve it for others to enjoy. One of my favorite photo sayings is "A Photo increases in value over time." Put your memories in the bank with good prints.

07.09.07 | Basic Tips
This morning I took an "e-stroll" through my favorite weather website’s photo gallery at wunderground.com. I like this gallery because people from all over the world contribute to it. I have enjoyed this gallery for years and some of the photographers seem like old friends. It is easy to pick out the new photographers because their newness is reflected in their photographs. Once a photo is taken, good or bad, the new photographer is very proud of the image and hurriedly uploads it for all the world to see. So here are some of the errors and greatness I saw in this morning’s e-stroll and ways they could be improved.

The first photographer of the day did something very right in their photo. The picture was of a very unusual white slug. In this case the photographer wanted to show the slug and show the fact that the slug was larger than other slugs and give the viewer an idea of how large it was. This was done by having other slugs in the photo off to the side and by having a person’s hand in the photo. This is a great way to give the viewer an idea of the proportion of size. So next time you experience a hail storm, don’t just run out and take photos of hailstones. In order to make the size mean something hold it in your hand or put a pencil, ruler, quarter, or golf ball next to it. This also is important to show how large a tree trunk is. Have a person lean on the tree. Then the viewer will see that it was a really BIG tree.

Since I am writing this right after the Fourth of July I saw a lot of fireworks photos. Some were extremely pretty and others were blurry. The difference was the use of a tripod. Anytime you are shooting at night you need to put your camera on a sturdy tripod. If you have a tripod and it is not all that sturdy, make it that way by hanging your camera bag on it. Night photography is one of my favorite types of photography. Get a tripod and go out and play with making some wonderful and unusual photos. Remember, before you do this, be sure to RTM (read the manual).

Since I am on the subject of tripods I’ll talk about another stabilizing (sort of) photo accessory that many, including myself, like to use, the "autopod." This is my term for taking photos from your car. Using this technique worked quite well for me the time my son and I watched a bear for about 20 minutes early one morning. Autopods are safe and convenient. If you shoot from your car please roll down the window, or your photo will have a blue/green tint to it, and please pull off and stop. Taking photos while moving (I am assuming here you are a passenger, not the driver) seldom results in a good photo.

One of the major mistakes new photographers made in the photos I saw this morning was centering the subject. This makes the subject the "bulls-eye" and will quickly loose a viewer’s attention. I suggest you read a few photo books or go online and look up "rule of thirds." Basically this says to divide your photo into thirds vertically and horizontally and put your subject in the place where lines intersect. A simple way to think of this is to pretend your photo is a clock face. You want your subject to be at 10, 2, 4 or 8 o’clock. This alone will change your photo from just a snap shot to a very interesting photo.

Although I could continue on I’ll save the others for later. I will finish up with two short tips. Always be respectful of your surroundings. Do not pull flowers, take photos through windows, or disturb nature. And, always take photos that bring you joy.

Mona Sadler, www.mokaphotos.com